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An Idyllic Riverside Patio
By: Kate and Tom O'Neill — 06/25/2003
An idyllic riverside patio sets the backdrop for this restaurant in New Hope, Pa., where diners enjoy Prince Edward Island mussels laced with chipotle and tasty pan-seared soft shell crabs.
At last, a rainless spring evening drew us, along with visiting friends, Al and Emily, to the outdoor terrace at The Landing. A restaurant since 1976, the former residence has been extensively renovated and enlarged by owner Chris Bollenbacher. Award-winning gardens separate The Landing on hectic North Main Street in New Hope, Pa., and the cozy essence-of-historic-Bucks interior contrasts comfortably with the restaurant's breezy, timeless terrace overlooking the Delaware.
That Monday, few of the 40-plus outside tables were occupied, a rarity for this popular summer destination. Greeted by our friendly server Liz, we sidestepped a pair of visiting mallards and gladly took a table along the railing. It afforded a perfect view of the century-old steel bridge and the fast-flowing river, graced by a pair of serene swans and the rest of the industrious mallard flock. On the opposite shore, the Lambertville skyline basked first in the sunset, then in twilight, a stunning backdrop dominated by the steeple of the First Presbyterian Church. As if on cue, one swan peacefully tucked its head beneath its wing and drifted into sleep under its mate's watchful guard.
The evening was perfect, and the dinner proved almost so. The menu offers six appetizers ($7.95 to $9.95), ranging from the warm and hearty — cola glazed pork spare ribs — to the cool and spare — cucumber-watermelon ceviche with plantain chips. The Landing, which specializes in fresh regional produce, offers five salads ($6.95 to $9.95), including one that could be a meal in itself: pan-seared King Salmon, watercress, mandarin oranges and fennel, dressed with lemon-chive vinaigrette ($9.95). Al chose a salad composed of warm, herb-crusted feta cheese, a “local tomato,” and cucumber with a yogurt dressing, flavored with basil and mint ($8.95). While it is still early for ripe local produce, he found the salad both fresh and refreshing, boosted by the pairing of assertive feta and bracing yogurt dressing. Emily ordered the special cream of mushroom soup, with wild rice and just a hint of sherry ($5.95). She found it “just right: just rich enough and served at the perfect temperature.” Kate selected a generous bowl of Prince Edward Island mussels ($9.95), steamed in tequila and chopped tomatoes, then laced with chipotle peppers and cilantro-lime butter. We all agreed: eight thumbs up. Tom chose a fondue of cheese, roasted pepper and crabmeat ($9.95) that would also easily satisfy two. Crunchy tortillas and a zingy avocado-tomato relish offset the rich crab-cheese combination. A late diner could sit at the commodious outdoor bar and make a fine meal of this fondue and a glass of wine.
Al, a Virginia vintner, appreciated The Landing's generous offering of almost 70 vintages. The list includes nine each of California and Australia Cabernets and Chardonnays, about six each of other whites, plus Merlots, Pinot Noirs and Zinfandels, along with a nice selection of sparkling wines, both domestic and French. By-the-glass selections include 12 whites and six reds ranging from $6 to $9. Al chose a bottle of Syrah from California's Cartlidge and Browne ($34) that was richly flavored, with the balance between fruit and tannin tipped in favor of the oak in which it is aged.
The menu lists 10 entrées ($20.95 to $29.95), with additional daily specials. We all opted for the regular menu, with Al and Tom inclined toward dishes that would complement the Syrah. Al chose Flat Iron Steak ($24.95), an in-vogue cut that lived up to its reputation for tenderness. Pan-roasted and served with mashed potatoes, it was accompanied by Andouille sausage, a fried squash blossom and pepper- tomato relish. Emily chose the "Jumbo Lump" crab cake ($24.95). Jumbo it certainly was, but the crab seemed to be more claw than lump, and its flavor had to struggle to compete with the Old Bay-like seasoning. The basil-scented mashed potato, spinach and a perfectly cooked succotash of sweet corn and scallions were supportive companions to the crab.
Kate was delighted with her juicy, pan-seared soft shell crabs ($29.95), coated with a crisp hominy crust and served with sweet corn/red-pepper mashed potatoes, watercress and tomato. Two dipping sauces — one sweet, one spicy — counterbalanced each other and were superb with the crabs' briny flavor. Hoping the mallard clan would not object, Tom ordered duck breast, medium rare ($26.95). Scented with juniper and sliced thin, it was served on a purée of yucca, accompanied by bok choy and a compote of blackberry and port wine. The duck arrived as ordered, nicely pink in the middle, but proved a bit chewy. Its natural flavor was overwhelmed by the compote, which to Tom's taste was too jammy and sweet.
From the five imaginative dessert selections, we chose and shared two. The bread pudding ($6) was made with pecan bread, laced with white chocolate and blueberries. It arrived warm, topped with vanilla ice cream and was just as delicious as it sounded. Still, the highest accolades went to the chocolate-apricot gateau topped with an orange-raspberry coulis ($8). Nearing the end of the meal, the air cooled as a slender crescent moon hung in the western sky. We lingered a bit longer, enjoying the idyllic setting over coffee, tea ($1.50) and an enigma: Why was the sleeping swan not swept downstream by the rain-swollen current? Do swans paddle in their sleep? Just the sort of question to ponder after a fine meal al fresco.
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